This is an open letter to the authors of "Time Stands Still" on what is now called the Guardian, Peter Nielsen and Chris Cooke.
Years ago when we (Tom Davis, Kelly Rich,& David Rubine) put up "Foreplay," on the Monolith, we were determined to show what could be done on lead by hook and drill. After succeeding on the route placing only 6 bolts, a friend approached me and flatly stated the the run to the first bolt (currently bolt #2) was needlessly dangerous. When I rememinded him that I had drilled that bolt from a hook, on lead, he set me straight: this is Pinnacles, the rock often breaks, and how psyched would I be if someone took that fall while climbing to or clipping my first bolt? (It would be ugly). So I went back and added a bolt to keep the route reasonable.
My point is that Time Stands Still is a great climb, but it is very dangerous the way it stands. The climbing is not difficult up to the first bolt, but it is pointlessly dangerous the way it stands. Though the move can be protected by a #6 Friend, not many Pinnacles climbers carry or even own such a piece. A fall getting to the first bolt could be crippling or even deadly.
I would like to propose that you, or I, add a bolt to the start of the route to protect the move to the current first bolt to make the start of the route safe and more consistant with the rest of the climb. The climb would be really quality with the addition of that bolt and a well placed lower-off anchor at the top of the formation.
What do you think? I have been doing quite a bit of anchor and bolt enhancement in Bear Gulch, and I will happily add it to my list of projects, but not without your permission.
Cheers, Tom Davis
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