I agree with Tom. The route is on unusually good rock. The climbing is first class. But the first clip is going to get someone hurt. I'm taller than average and still had to do odd moves to clip the first bolt. A fall here would be extremely serious. Brooks, I think the runout at the end is managable, and not likely to kill someone. No added bolt is needed there.
What I agree with even more is Tom's approach to the issue. He might not admit it, but he's a very accomplished first ascentionist at Pinnacles. He's contributed a lot to climbing there. He's also an excellent climber all around, and, in addition to these acomplishments, he's a nice guy to be around. This post is typical of him. No spewing, no negativity, just a polite and reasoned approach to a problem. Thanks for that.
And, from a standpoint of climbing ethics, Tom, this is also right on. My biggest fear for Pinnacles' climbing future is that wanna-be "public servants" will, in the name of making climbing "safe," start adding bolts to routes without reference to first ascentionists, or to accepted ethics. If (or when) this happens, climbing there is shot. One might as well go to a gym, or somewhere like my home crag Table Mountain. As much as I love our crag here, the bolted routes are virtually identical (yawn). The variety of climbing routes at Pinnacle is half the fun there. Tom's approach may or may not lead to fixing a problem, but by asking and not just doing (in spite of being a "big name") he won't encourage a bolt-adding free for all which would ruin the place. Well done.
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