FOP's Letter (5/1/2006)

Second, take along a healthy dose of respect for this climb - the rating belies the difficulties.

Here's the short list of warnings:

• Expect an ALL day climb (start early)
• The approach is strenuous (bring plenty of water)
• Do your research (Route-finding will be your greatest challenge)
• Be especially aware of loose rock
• Make sure to use the climbing register so that the Rangers know where you are

Okay, enough cautionary nagging. Here are the details:

• The start is possibly the toughest route-finding challenge. There is some possible confusion in the guidebook regarding the start. Look closely at the photo on pg.155 and note the line marked 359 on the right by the tree. That's your start - NOT the horizontal below that, which links with Derringer.

There is a good topo showing this on Clint's site

• Keep in mind that a lot of this climb is horizontal, along the ridgeline, so get your bearings and keep heading north.

Also, remind your beginners of the potential hazards of pendulum falls on traverses.

• The descent for this climb is notoriously dicey - use extreme caution. Again, Clint has been nice enough to publish a much improved topo of the descent Print it and take it with you.

Gear-wise:

You are correct that the route is a bolted route and while there may be a few opportunities for supplemental natural protection, be prepared for long run outs. You won't need many draws - no single pitch has more than three or four bolts on it. AND make sure your draws have narrow profile biners since you will likely run into a few "old school" bolt hangers.

I would recommend taking some cams and a few nuts, as well as, several short and medium runners. It never hurts to be prepared.

Don't forget headlamps (just in case you are delayed, the descent in the dark is NO fun) and pack a wind-breaker for the classic 2:00, Pinnacles wind gusts.

Hope this helps and good luck on your climb. I'm sure that you and your friends will have a day to remember. Let us now how it goes.

FOP