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  • Tempory Closure of Tourist Trap

    Trail Crew will be closing the Tourist trap climbing area for repairs from 4/3/17 through 4/27/17 Monday through Thursday.

Latest 'New' Routes List

FOP is working on adding this information to our route listings, but until that time here is a comprehensive list of routes documented since the release of Brad Young's recent guide book.

This list was originally posted on the MudnCrud forum.

East Side:

  • 24.1 The Road To Bagalaar 5.8 R
Start at the large arete just right of Bushwackin Dave. A first bolt is visible 12 feet up the arete. Continue up loose rock to the 2nd bolt which protects the 5.8 crux moves. From there look for a large knob; it is just above the 3rd bolt. Use a small (and marginal) nut placement in a flake 10 feet above the 3rd bolt (this is a horizontal placement in good rock - a long runner can also be slung around a knob out left, and the two equalized). Climbing above the nut is on good rock with a committing step left to a pocket and a mantle to a ledge. The climbing above the nut is run out 5.7. A two bolt, anchor with painted chain can be seen in the orange headwall above (good rock, both bolts are 3.25 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-Piece). Further information: first bolt placed on stance: 2.75 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece; second bolt placed from hooks: 3.25 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece; third bolt placed from hooks: 2.75 inch x 3/8 inch Rawl 5-piece. FA party: Josh Mucci, Fabrizio Bittner, others.
FA Date: January 17, 2009. Source(s): Emails from and discussion with Josh Mucci.
  • 74.5 Jorgie Swallows 5.10d R
Start on Swallow Crack, but, when partway up, move a little right, to and then up an overhanging arete/right-facing dihedral (a bit of both). This, the "R" rated crux of the route, involves interesting pinches and some finger crack. Protection here is possible, but not good. Join Jorgie's Continuation just below its crux bolt. Finish up that climb.
FA: Gavin Emmons. FA Date: June 6, 2009. Source(s): Postings to MudnCrud Forum, June, 2009.
  • 92.9 Gavin's Tangent 5.10a **
Start on Stupendous Man. From the ledge above the mantle section of that route, move up and slightly left to a single bolt. From that bolt, move up to an obvious corner/arch which allows a side-cling/under-cling leftward (good gear here, one to two inches). Clip the last bolt on Lithium and finish on that route.
FA (of entire route as a free pitch): Probably Gavin Emmons. FA Date: March 5, 2009. Source(s): Postings to MudnCrud Forum, May, 2009. Additional sources: Consensus as to rating, stars, and quality of protection among climbers who climbed it March 20, 2010, including Brad Young, Alan Nilsson, Steve Dawson, "Jet," and about three others. On that date there were five separate leads of the route, and also several toprope ascents.
  • 336.9 The Frog - True Summit 5.4
The Frog's actual summit appears to have been climbed (probably years ago, to reach the high point). Move 75 feet up South Side Shuffle to an oak tree. Twenty feet farther look for a slot on the left. Walk up this slot 20 feet to the base of a bulge. A few moves of fifth class up and left across the bulge and into an obvious, watermelon size hole lead to easy ground. No summit anchor.
FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Brad Young, Bob Walton, Josh Mucci, Jennifer Wang, inspection and ascent of route, November 15, 2008.
  • 352.2 Tadpole Rock - East Face 5.7 X
Tadpole Rock is the obvious formation 100 yards northwest of The Frog. Its north face is steep to quite steep. The lower angle, long, east face has two older bolts making an anchor on top (and, now, that anchor has a third, newer bolt). The face has an "alluvial fan" shape. Start at the left side of the base of this face, left of an oak tree. Climb up and right, on an easy but getting-harder slab (5.6). Continue 70 feet to one bolt which protects crux moves over a steeper bulge.
FA Party: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown. Source(s): Brad Young, Bob Walton, Jennifer Wang, Josh Mucci, inspection and ascent, November 15, 2008.
  • 352.8 Brown Rice and Boogers 5.7 *
This route is on the far right (west) end of the north face of Tadpole Rock. Four bolts protect 65 feet of climbing. A few moves from the ground lead to an obvious hole in the rock. The first bolt can be clipped while standing in this hole. Two more bolts protect climbing straight up. After the third bolt the angle of the rock declines. One more bolt protects climbing to a two bolt anchor on top of the formation. Walk off to the southwest. FA Party: Brad and Tricia Young, Alan Nilsson.
FA Date: December 9, 2009. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
  • 364.1 Flue Fire 5.10d * (FA party called 5.10+)
Bolted line 60 feet right of/around corner from Chimney Sweep. Three bolts in a scoop/water chute (third bolt is hard to see - look up and left from second bolt). Crux is passing obvious bulge. A fourth bolt protects easier climbing to the top of the formation (which climbing is done left of that fourth bolt). Shares a one bolt top anchor with Chimney Sweep (they merge toward the top).
FA Party: John Barbella, Jim McConachie, Bill McConachie, Dennis Erik S. FA Date: May 4, 2008. Source(s): Discussion with Jim McConachie; also Brad Young, Joe Denicola attempt at climbing.
  • 454.9 The Royal Flush 5.10b**
This route is on Casino Rock. It starts left of Crap Chute in a steep and prominent water chute (this feature is shown on the topo in the book on page 181). Fifteen feet up the chute is a fixed pin on the right. Above that, medium cams can be placed in holes leading up to the first bolt (take a few 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inch pieces). A steep bulge (5.9) through pockets gains the second bolt. Three more bolts lead to the route crux, a difficult, but well protected bulge (5.10b). The chute becomes low angle above the crux, quickly dropping the climbing to class four. Continue to belay at trees at the top of the chute. All bolts were placed with hooks and are 3/8 inch by 3 inch. This route is definitely one of the best in Condor Gulch.
FA Party: Fabrizio Bittner, Josh Mucci. FA Date: March 17, 2010. Source(s): Emails and photos by Josh Mucci, March 18, 2010; ascent of route by Brad Young and Jim Lundeen, March 21, 2010.
  • 457.8 Blackjack 5.9
This route is on Casino Rock, 200 feet right of High Stakes Breaks. Start in an obvious, dark, water streak (the streak can be seen in the photo on page 180 of the guidebook). Climb in the water streak (5.7 and 5.8, with some wild stemming) which takes some good gear to just below a bolt which is 60 feet off the ground. Move right onto a loose shelf from which the bolt can be clipped. A well protected, but intimidating 5.9 mantle/bulge leads to easy climbing and then to very easy climbing. Pass under a large chockstone before reaching a tree (belay here). Walk off. Pro: Very small to four inch (the four inch piece is critical), including extra one and two inch. The one bolt was placed with aid. It is a stainless steel, 3/8 inch Rawl.
FA Party: Fabrizio Bittner, Josh Mucci. FA Date: November 9, 2009. Source(s): Email describing route from Josh Mucci; also, Brad Young ascent of route, March 21, 2010.

West Side

  • 640.1 The Wolf 5.7 R
Start as for The Lamb, on The Shepherd. Clip the bolt on that route and immediately move right up a (different) low angle chute aiming for a large lodestone 20 feet above. Small gear (a bomber small/medium nut and a small cam) can be placed on the right side of the lodestone. Continue straight up 12 feet to a good stance and a second bolt. Fifteen feet of sustained, and run out 5.7 leads to a mantle onto a large block (The Microwave Mantle). A third bolt is five feet above the block. Move slightly right and then up to a stance just below a headwall. Clip a fourth bolt (it is six feet above the third bolt, but it is in a scoop, and is invisible from the start). The route ends where it connects to the normal Shepherd walk-off. One bolt was placed for an anchor. It is on the "walk-off" side of the sub-pinnacle near where the route ends. Use it with body-position for a belay. All bolts are Rawl Five Piece, 3/8 inch x 3 1/4 inch; all were placed from stance.
FA Party: Josh Mucci (roped solo). FA Date: February 20 2009. Source(s): Emails from first ascentionist.
  • 709.1 Crowley Tower - Tower Five - The 200 Pound Club 5.0
The north side of Tower Five is a broad, low angle face. The standard, class two route is on the right (west) edge of this face. This newer class four route ascends a clean water chute in the middle of that face (about 50 feet to the left/east of the class two route). Forty five feet, no protection. FA Party: Tyler Martin and Josh Mucci (simultaneous free solo).
FA Date: January 10, 2010. Source(s): Discussion with first ascent parties; subsequent ascent of route.
  • 709.91 Balconies Bumps - Second Bump Fourth Class
The Balconies Bumps are a series of small to medium size pinnacles located between The Crowley Towers and the upper edge of the upper tier of The Balconies. Use the same approach as for the towers, but 200 yards before (north) of them, at an obvious saddle in a low ridge, stop. Turn away from the towers at this point, sharply right (south). The Balconies Bumps are to the south, spread out in an area 100 to 200 yards away. This route is on the south face of the north-most significant bump (the one closest to The Crowley Towers; there is one bump farther north but it is only 10 feet high). Start from the notch on the south side of this pinnacle. Climb 25 feet to the summit. Descend by downclimbing. The summit has also been reached from other sides of the bump.
FA Party: Unknown, possibly Robert Behrens. FA Date: Unknown, possibly December 28, 2009. Source(s): Posting to MudnCrud Forum December 29, 2009; subsequent inspection and ascent of route with first ascent author.
  • 709.92 Balconies Bumps - Balconies Balls 5.3
This route is on the north face of the next bump south of the class four route on Balconies Bump -Second Bump (the routes start in the same notch, "back to back," four feet from each other). Climb an obvious, quite knobby face 25 feet to the summit. Walk off.
FA Party: Unknown, possibly Robert Behrens. FA Date: Unknown, possibly December 28, 2009. Source(s): Posting to MudnCrud Forum December 29, 2009; subsequent inspection and ascent of route with first ascent author.
  • 709.93 The 800 Club 5.7 *
This route is in a water chute on the east face of a large pinnacle 50 yards south of Balconies Bump - South Route (this is also 150 yards south of the lowest point on the ridge which is between The Crowley Towers and the top of The Balconies). The face is 75 feet high (this is one of the tallest of The Balconies Bumps; it is also the east-most bump). Climb the obvious shallow and steepening water chute; two pieces of gear to three inches protect easy moves to the first bolt. Continue past two more bolts to a low angle, run-out class four finish. Two anchor bolts are 15 feet left (southeast) of the top of the chute.
FA Party: Brad Young, Josh Mucci, Steve Ochinang, Robert Behrens, Tyler Martin, Tricia Young, Phil Keller, Brent Keller, Kristin Keller, Robert Walton, Jim McConachie, Joe Hornof, Jeff Lane. FA Date: January 10, 2010. Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.
  • 740.5 Somewhere 5.6 R *
Reported long ago to David Rubine by Jon Cochran (as part of S.V.M. Post 200 Climbers), by way of a letter and a "map." Jon wrote, "lies on low angle somewhat flaky face to the right of Nexus. Maybe 4+/- bolts." Bolts reported as 2 1/4 inch Star Dryvin. No rating given.
FA Party: Crile Carvey, Jon Cochran. FA Date: 1984. Source(s): Correspondence by Jon Cochran to David Rubine, given November, 2008 by Rubine to Young as part of huge box of old archival material.
EDIT, December 14, 2008: The route is 5.6 R *
It is 500 feet right (northeast) of Nexus, right of steep, broken cliffs and 70 feet right of a tiered waterstreak. Look for an obvious, low-angle, but high slab. Four bolts, the first 30 feet up, the fourth 100 feet up. Continue straight up past the fourth bolt, using several OK slung knobs for additional protection. It is 170 feet to the rim. No belay anchors, use body position. The walk down descent described for Nexus ('07 guidebook, page 297) starts 150 feet to the right (northeast) from where the climb ends. Additional source: ascent by Brad Young and Erik Bratton.
  • 769.5 The Jungle Slab - Original Route 5.8 R
The Jungle Slab is a large, mossy, east facing slab, north of Thundering Herd, 100 yards north of the metal gangway encountered when hiking north out of the Balconies Caves. It is also 150 feet south of the Balconies Cliff/Balconies Cave trail junction. In 2010, a huge oak fell down from right in front of The Jungle Slab routes; its fallen trunk now points directly at the start of Original Route. Obvious third class leads up six feet to ledges from which this and the next route start. Original Route climbs the slot which is above the ledge. The slot has sections of loose rock. It protects with one one inch cam, one five inch cam and two fixed pitons. An ancient bolt at the top of the slot then protects moves to the right, six feet, to a second bolt. From the second bolt easy slab climbing leads 20 feet up and right to an obvious, large hole/shallow alcove and a third bolt. Slab climbing then continues 30 feet up and slightly left to a fourth (ancient) bolt. Fifteen more feet of slab lead straight up to a large ledge and the end of the climbing. A pine 10 feet left of the top-out provides a belay anchor. It is 98 feet from this pine to the start ledge. It appears that this route was originally an aid climb and that aid pitons were used to get to the top of the slot (the amount of loose rock in and around the slot in 2010 was not indicative of prior free climbing, but apparent pin-scars and the bolt pattern above the slot indicate that the route had been climbed). Also the second bolt was replaced in December, 2008 by Brad Young; the replacement bolt was positioned approximately six inches from the original bolt. The third bolt was also replaced in December, 2008 by Brad Young. Due to rock quality, this replacement bolt was placed 18 inches from the original bolt.
FA: Unknown. FA Date: Unknown, but likely between 1965 and 1980. Source(s): Self, discovery of old bolts in 2007, ascent of route with Dennis Erik S. and Phillip Keller, March, 2010.
  • 769.51 The Jungle Slab - Dysentery Direct 5.8 R
Third class up to the same ledge from which Original Route starts. Move twenty feet right of Original Route to a large lodestone which is 18 feet above the ground. Belay here from one old bolt. From the lodestone, climb to a second bolt 10 feet higher. Move past this bolt to a ledge (5.8, mossy). Move left on the ledge. Slung knobs and several two to four inch cams protect a second crux directly below the second bolt of Original Route. A fall from this second crux would be serious; the cams and slung knobs gain some quality only by their quantity. It appears that this route was started but never completed (ample loose rock, the very bad - before replacement - quality of the second bolt, plus the extreme seriousness of the second crux all make it seem nearly certain that the party that placed the two bolts then abandoned the route). The second bolt was replaced by Phillip Keller on March 7, 2010 (the original bolt pulled out with almost no effort).
FA: Dennis Erik S., Brad Young, Phillip Keller. FA Date: March 7, 2010. Source(s): Self, discovery of old bolts in 2007, ascent of route with Dennis Erik S. and Phillip Keller, March, 2010.
  • 815.4 Los Banditos 5.10a A1*
The natural continuation of the Bandits in Bondage pitches. Four pitches. Approach via the first pitch of the route The West Face (route # 811). Fifty feet past the end of this pitch (leftward, The West Face traverses after its first pitch) is a small meadow. Los Banditos starts from this meadow, 100 feet right of the start of Rock Around the Clock. Pitch one (60 feet): start on a small pedestal of rock. Six aid bolts on an overhanging face lead up and left to a small roof which is at the bottom of a water streak. Two more aid bolts lead over the roof. Intimidating free moves from the eighth bolt (5.9) lead to a ledge and one directional bolt. The first pitch anchor is 5 feet to the right. Pitch two (110 feet): This excellent pitch continues up the obvious water chute past 10 bolts (10 includes the directional from the first pitch). Getting into the chute is 5.9; two bulges higher in the chute are each 5.10a. The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and a two bolt belay. Pitch 3 (195 feet): Continue up the chute past five bolts on increasingly easy and runout climbing. The crux is after the second bolt (5.7). Large knobs can be slung for additional protection. One hundred fifty feet up, the chute branches. Take the straight up branch (that is, don't take the branch to the left). A two bolt anchor is obvious on a low angle slab, 30 feet below the bottom of the water chute which is descended as part of the Old Original Rappel Bypass variation (route # 836). Pitch Four (90 feet): Climb the deeper chute which is 30 feet left (north) of the chute which makes up the Rappel Bypass (these chutes are obvious on page 338 of the guidebook). Small cams (the only gear on the route) can be used to protect the moves into the chute (5.5); the chute then becomes class three and four (and can be further protected by slung knobs). End on the top of Machete Ridge, at a digger pine which is 30 feet from the end of Old Original's third pitch.
FA Party: Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Erik Bratton, Dennis Erik S. FA Date: December 6, 2009 (route was started in October, 2007). Source(s): Self, part of the first ascent party.

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